How To Board Up Windows for Hurricane Season – This Old House

If you live anywhere near the coast, hurricane season has a way of turning you into a part-time contractor. One minute you’re watering the lawn, the next you’re Googling “what size plywood do I need?” and wondering if you even own a tape measure. The good news: boarding up windows for a hurricane isn’t rocket science. With some planning, a few basic tools, and the right materials, you can protect your home like a prowithout waiting in a last-minute line at the hardware store.

In true This Old House spirit, this guide walks you through the why, what, and how of boarding up windows with practical, hands-on tips. We’ll cover the best materials, step-by-step instructions, common mistakes, and smart safety habits, all based on recommendations from emergency-preparedness agencies and building experts in the United States.

Why Boarding Up Windows Matters

When a hurricane hits, your windows are one of the most vulnerable parts of your home. High winds can launch anything outsideroof shingles, lawn chairs, branchesstraight into glass. Once a window blows out, wind and water rush inside, increasing pressure and potentially lifting parts of the roof or tearing open doors and other windows. That’s how “just one broken window” can turn into major structural damage.

Permanent storm shutters and impact-rated windows provide the best protection, but they’re not always in the budget. For many homeowners, plywood boards are the go-to temporary solution: affordable, widely available, andwhen installed correctlyfar more effective than “crossing your fingers and taping the glass.”

Know Your Hurricane Window Protection Options

1. Permanent Storm Shutters

Roll-down, accordion, Bahama, and colonial shutters are designed for quick deployment before a storm. They’re usually made of aluminum or steel and are anchored permanently to the house. If you face hurricanes regularly and want a “flip the switch and done” experience, shutters are idealthough they’re a bigger upfront investment.

2. Impact-Rated Windows and Doors

Impact-resistant glass looks like regular glass but uses laminated layers and stronger frames to resist windborne debris. It’s the most seamless optionno storage, no scrambling before a stormbut usually comes into play during major remodels or new construction.

3. Plywood Window Covers (DIY “Shutters”)

For many homes, especially older ones, plywood is the practical middle ground: temporary, strong, and something you can install with basic tools. Done right, plywood panels can significantly reduce the risk of broken windows and interior damage during a hurricane.

The rest of this article focuses on plywood because it’s what most DIY-minded homeowners use to board up windows for hurricane season.

What You’ll Need to Board Up Windows with Plywood

Choose the Right Plywood

• Thickness: Use at least 5/8-inch exterior-grade plywood (CDX). For larger or more exposed openings, 3/4-inch plywood offers extra stiffness and impact resistance.
• Grade: Look for exterior-grade or marine-grade plywood. Avoid interior-only sheet goods or oriented strand board (OSB) for hurricane protection.
• Condition: Pick sheets that are flat, free of big knots, delamination, or cracks. Warped plywood is harder to anchor securely and may flex more in high winds.

Fasteners and Hardware

The exact hardware depends on whether you’re attaching to wood framing or masonry, but common recommendations from emergency-management and building guides include:

• Lag screws or bolts (typically 1/4- to 3/8-inch diameter) with washers.
• Masonry anchors if attaching to concrete block or brick.
• Barrel bolts or similar hardware for inside-the-frame installations.
• Large washers to keep bolt heads from pulling through the plywood during high wind gusts.

Tools

• Measuring tape and permanent marker
• Circular saw (with safety geareye and ear protection, dust mask)
• Drill/driver with appropriate bits
• Wrench or socket set for lag screws
• Step ladder or extension ladder (for upper-story windows)
• Work gloves and sturdy shoes

Pro tip: don’t wait for the hurricane cone to land on your ZIP code before buying this stuff. Many government and weather agencies recommend purchasing and pre-cutting boards before hurricane season officially begins so you’re not fighting your neighbors for the last piece of plywood.

Step-by-Step: How to Board Up Windows on a Wood-Frame House

Step 1: Measure Each Opening

Measure the width and height of each window (or door with glass). For a standard outside-mount installation, you want the plywood to extend at least 4 inches beyond the window opening on each sideso add 8 inches to both the width and height.

Write the measurements down clearly and label which window they belong to (“Living Room Left,” “Kitchen Sink,” etc.). You’ll thank yourself later when you’re trying to match up boards with openings in 30 mph winds.

Step 2: Cut and Label the Plywood

Use a circular saw to cut each sheet of plywood to size. As you cut, label each piece with a big marker indicating which window it covers and which side should face out. Some homeowners also mark the top edge to avoid confusion during installation.

Labeling is more than just being neatit means you can reuse these boards for multiple seasons. Store them somewhere dry and you’ve got a custom “hurricane kit” ready to go next year.

Step 3: Mark and Pre-Drill Fastener Holes

Laying each panel flat, mark fastener positions about 2 inches in from the edges. Common guidance is to space fasteners every 12 to 18 inches around the perimeter, with closer spacing for large or highly exposed openings.

Drill holes through the plywood at your marks. Then hold the panel in position over the window and use the holes as guides to mark where you’ll drill into the house framing or masonry. Take the board down and pre-drill pilot holes in the wall where required, especially if you’re using lag screws and anchors.

Step 4: Install Anchors (If Needed)

For masonry walls, you’ll likely need expanding anchors or sleeve anchors to hold the lag screws. Drill the correct size hole for the anchor, insert it, and ensure it’s flush with the surface. For wood framing, pre-drilled pilot holes are often enough, as long as the screws penetrate the framing at least 1 ¾ to 2 ½ inches, depending on fastener size and opening dimensions.

Step 5: Mount the Plywood Panels

Place the panel back over the window, aligning the pre-drilled holes. Slip a washer on each lag screw or bolt, then drive it through the plywood into the wall or anchor. The washer spreads the load and helps prevent the fastener head from pulling through under stress.

Tighten each fastener firmly, but avoid over-tightening to the point of crushing the plywood. The board should sit flat and snug against the wall with minimal gaps.

Step 6: Repeat and Check for Gaps

Work your way around the house, boarding each vulnerable opening. When everything is up, walk around and look for obvious gaps or loose panels. Small gaps are inevitable, but big gaps can let wind get behind the panel and start prying it away.

If local code or your own comfort level calls for it, you can run a bead of exterior-grade caulk along the top edge of the panel to shed water. Just make sure you’re not completely sealing in moisture around wood trim or siding.

Inside-the-Frame Method for Deep Recessed Windows

Some homes have windows set deeply into the wall, with substantial interior or exterior recesses. In those cases, an “inside-the-frame” mounting can work well. Research on plywood shutter performance suggests that fitting the board snugly into the window recess and securing it with barrel bolts can make it harder for wind to get underneath and pull the panel away.

How the Inside-Mount Method Works

1. Measure the recessed opening and cut the plywood slightly smaller (often about 1/4 inch total clearance) so it fits inside the frame.
2. Install heavy-duty barrel bolts into the sill, head, and jambs so they extend into the plywood when locked.
3. Slide the board into place and lock the barrel bolts, clamping the panel securely into the frame.

This method can provide excellent wind resistance but takes more planning and hardware. Many homeowners set it up well before hurricane season, so they’re not fiddling with hinges and bolts the day before landfall.

Special Cases: Sliding Doors, Large Picture Windows, and Upper Stories

Large Glass Areas

Wide sliding doors and big picture windows often need more than just thick plywoodthey may benefit from added stiffeners, such as 2x4s bolted horizontally or vertically to the outside of the panel to limit flexing during high winds. Hurricane guidance documents note that stiffeners help keep the panel from bowing inward and contacting the glass.

Second-Story Windows

Second-story windows add a layer of logistics (and ladder anxiety). Some homeowners install permanent tracks or hardware so plywood or metal panels can slide into place from a safer position. Others hire professionals for upper-story boarding, especially if the roofline and ground slope make ladder work tricky. If you’re uneasy on ladders in calm weather, hurricane prep is not the moment to test your limits.

Timing and Safety Tips for Boarding Up Windows

• Don’t wait until the last minute. Many emergency-preparedness agencies recommend having boards pre-cut and hardware installed before hurricane season and putting them up at least 24–48 hours before expected landfall.
• Never rely on tape. Taping windows doesn’t prevent shattering and can create larger, more dangerous shards of glass.
• Leave at least one safe exit. Don’t board up every door to the point that you trap yourself inside. Ensure you have a safe, accessible exit route that is not exposed to the worst wind direction.
• Secure more than just windows. Move patio furniture, grills, and yard décor indoors so they don’t become airborne projectiles that test your new plywood upgrades.
• Follow local codes and recommendations. Coastal areas often have specific requirements for wind loads and fastening patterns.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the wrong material. Particleboard, thin sheathing, or interior-grade panels don’t hold up well to wind and moisture.
• Nailing into brick or block without anchors. Smooth masonry won’t hold nails during hurricane-force gusts; use appropriate anchors instead.
• Too few fasteners. Wide spacing or missing corners makes it easier for wind to grab an edge and rip the panel away.
• No labeling or storage plan. If you don’t label panels and store them flat in a dry place, you’ll be back at the hardware store buying new ones next season.

After the Storm: Removing and Storing Your Panels

Once local authorities say it’s safe and the worst winds have passed, you can remove the boardscarefully. Check each panel for damage; splintered, cracked, or delaminated plywood may not be reliable for future storms.

Brush off dirt and debris, let the boards dry completely, then stack them flat off the ground in a garage or shed. Keep your hardware bagged and labeled. A little organization here turns “future you” into a hurricane prep all-star, with a full set of ready-to-go panels that fit each window.

Conclusion: A Little Prep, a Lot of Protection

Boarding up windows for hurricane season is one of those unglamorous chores that pays off massively when the wind starts howling. With the right plywood, hardware, and installation steps, you can significantly reduce your home’s risk of broken glass, water intrusion, and wind damage.

Is plywood the forever solution? Probably notmany homeowners eventually upgrade to impact-rated windows or permanent shutters. But as a budget-friendly, DIY-friendly strategy, properly installed plywood panels are a smart line of defense while you plan those long-term improvements.

Think of it as giving your home a set of armor: not stylish, not subtle, but very effective when the forecast turns ugly.

sapo: Boarding up your windows before a hurricane hits isn’t just a “maybe I should” projectit’s one of the most important ways to protect your home from broken glass, wind-driven rain, and costly damage. In this practical guide inspired by the hands-on spirit of This Old House, you’ll learn how to choose the right plywood, measure and cut panels, anchor them safely over windows and doors, avoid common mistakes, and store your boards so they’re ready for next season. Whether this is your first hurricane prep or your tenth, you’ll walk away with a clear, step-by-step plan to keep your homeand everyone in itsafer when the storms roll in.

Real-World Experiences Boarding Up Windows for Hurricane Season

Talk to anyone who’s ridden out a major storm and they’ll tell you: boarding up windows becomes part of your personal hurricane ritual. The first time you do it, it feels chaotic. By the second or third season, you and your plywood panels are on a first-name basis.

Homeowners often describe the first big lesson as: don’t wait. The year you decide to “see where the storm goes” before cutting wood is usually the year you end up in a packed home center, racing the clock while the plywood aisle looks like a Black Friday sale gone wrong. People who’ve been through that once tend to pre-cut their boards in the off-season, label them clearly, and store them where they can be pulled out fast.

Another common experience is realizing how much difference good labeling makes. Folks who wrote “Window 1, 2, 3” on their panels the night before landfall usually end up swearing they’ll do better next time. Those who took the time to mark “Primary Bedroom Left,” “Kitchen Sink,” and “Slider – Patio” say installation feels more like a system than a scramble. It’s the difference between climbing a ladder in a light breeze and fumbling with a mystery board in 40 mph gusts.

People also learn quickly that cheap shortcuts aren’t worth it. Some homeowners admit they once tried to get by with thinner panels (like 1/2-inch sheathing) or reused old, water-damaged boards. After seeing panels bow dramatically or hearing how much they flexed in heavy gusts, many go back and upgrade to 5/8- or 3/4-inch exterior-grade plywood. They’ll tell you: it’s easier to haul heavier boards once than to clean up shattered glass and water damage later.

Then there’s the “ladder lesson.” Many coastal homeowners have a story about trying to install second-story panels in strong winds and realizing it’s not worth the risk. The fix often involves planning ahead: installing hardware or tracks that allow panels to slide into place from a safer angle, or budgeting to have a professional handle upper-story openings. After a few close calls, people get serious about fall protection and choose safety over DIY heroics.

Another repeated theme: boarding up becomes a family or neighborhood effort. Neighbors with more experience often walk over to show someone newer to the area how to measure and cut plywood, which fasteners work on block versus wood, and how to avoid drilling into the wrong place. In some communities, people cut panels together in one driveway, knock out half a dozen houses, and build a shared “we’ve got this” mindset before a storm.

Finally, many homeowners say that once the panels are up and the tools are put away, there’s a real sense of relief. You can’t control where the storm goes, but you can control how prepared your house is. Sitting inside while the wind picks up, hearing debris hit plywood instead of glass, is a powerful reminder that those dusty hours with a saw and drill really matter.

If you’re just getting started, that first set of panels might feel like a big project. But over time, it becomes part of your hurricane-season rhythmright up there with checking your generator, stocking water, and bringing the patio furniture inside. And when the next storm comes into the forecast cone, you’ll be ready to protect your windows instead of panic-shopping for whatever’s left on the lumber rack.